Monday, January 22, 2007

Inernational Stereotypes: An American in Wuhan

I was in the back of a taxi, weaving through traffic, speeding across the Yangtze River Bridge. It was the middle of the night. I was with friends, a Canadian and a Chinese co teacher named Daisy. The driver suddenly realized that we weren't speaking Chinese. He asked Daisy where we were from. She told him. He smiled a big toothy grin, looked in his rear view mirror and said in Chinese "Americans are welcome in Wuhan. Iraqis aren't." I haven't felt any animosity towards me from the Chinese about being American. (Granted, I might not notice because of the language barrier.) The other foreigners in town however, are a different story.

A stereotypical American: An obnoxious ignorant redneck...arrogant and disrespectful, constantly awaiting the opportunity for someone to fuck up so they can sue. I've sat through entire lunches where the people I know rag on America. I've had others express surprise when they get to know me, exclaiming "I always just assumed all Americans were like the people on Blind-date". People are quick to define me by my country... to tell me what I think and why. While there is a lot of banter and joking going on, there isn't much of a discussion.

As Lillis points out, we should look at what America is offering the world: Blind-date...Britney Spears. If these are the things we value and export, no wonder people think of us as they do. America obviously has more to offer than the worst of pop-culture. The fact that these things are popular elsewhere in the world isn't just a reflection of the people back home.

Unfortunately, the negative sentiment, the disappointed looks people give me when I tell them where I am from, have to do with what my taxi driver commented on. It's not about popular culture; it's about politics. While I don't support the administration or the way things are, I won't just shrug it off and say I voted for the other guy. I'm an American. Maybe I'm frustrated, but I'm not going to move. So by being American, I am supporting the things that I don't . But should individuals be held responsible for the actions of their government?

Stereotypes and generalizations can be dangerous. They can too easily foster hate without understanding. I think that anyone who automatically defines a person based on where they are from is just as close minded as the pigheaded Americans they are condemning. And if people got to talking they would probably realize they are frustrated about similar things.

P.S. If I use my experience as a sample, the stereotype that the American abroad is the most obnoxious, arrogant, and disrespectful would prove false. It would be a three way tie between the Brits, the Canadians, and my fellow countrymen. :)

Also... the picture is of a pair of flip flops (or should I say "freedom flops") I bought at a dollar store in New Jersey......

Friday, January 19, 2007

the responsibility of a traveler....


Bright eyed, white faced, and tall, I stick out like a sore thumb. There aren't a lot of foreigners in town and people stare without shame. I once went to the supermarket with my Chinese teacher Robyn. As we were checking out, two older women behind us fell under the gawking spell. They asked Robyn about me and told her that they've never seen a foreigner in person. A lot of people here are in the same boat. And they stare. When I walk down the street, when I went to the doctor, when I get my hair cut, on the bus, everywhere. Admittedly, it can sometimes be a little much, but I am getting used to it. Especially when I remind myself that they are just surprised and curious.

In a city that is not internationally diverse it is easy to unintentionally become the center of attention. As a traveler I think it is important to remember that I am a guest in this city, that its culture is different than mine, and that my actions may in fact be the first impression people have of foreigners or of Americans in person. I can't help feeling that it is my responsibility to be respectful because of this.

I haven't written much about the other foreigners I have met here. There are 15 of us working at the same school and living in the same apartment building. While they are friendly, I haven't spent much time with most of them since the beginning of my trip. Everyone travels for different reasons and frankly speaking, they aren't my style. Sometimes I can't help but cringe a little when I witness or hear about their drunken escapades. Getting sloppy drunk/belligerent and destroying property (state property) in our apartment complex, fighting with taxi drivers, or breaking out the American National Anthem wherever they go makes me feel uncomfortable.

My friend here pointed out to me that while yes a foreign guest should be respectful, it is also the responsibility of everyone else to realize that the actions of one or a few people shouldn't shape their opinions about all foreigners or Americans. While this is true, I don't think it is so simple. Many of you might not know much about China. However, just like I did before I came here, you probably have different ideas about what it is like. You get these ideas indirectly, from the media, from different generalizations and stereotypes floating around, and from what other people tell you. Of course we all realize that my experience here can't serve as a generalization for all of China etc. But When I write about being here, I try to be careful, respectful, and fair as I know that I am a source that might shape your impression of life in China or confirm ideas you already have. How I behave here shouldn't serve as a generalization about foreigners or Americans, but when people have a direct experience with me or any foreigner, for better or worse it might confirm or shape ideas they already have.

winter meat

Another phenomena of the cold is the "winter meat". I was warned that once it starts getting cold, I'll really have to watch where I'm walking. If I'm not careful, I might accidentally slam into some dead animals. Now that it is cold enough, people season meat and put it outside all winter to let it dry. It hangs from balconies, from wires, in doorways, on sidewalks, and along side their laundry. Duck, sausages, even fish. Apparently, after Spring holiday, when the winter meat is ripe and ready...my meals here will be even tastier.

Baby its cold outside....


Tights, long johns, more tights, a pair of jeans, three pairs of socks, sneakers. Long johns, two sweaters, a small jacket under a big jacket. A hat, a scarf, and fingerless gloves that, in the classroom double as an eraser. Its winter in Wuhan. Most places here, including our classrooms, are not heated. With drafty windows and a constant flow of teachers and students in and out all day, the heater in the English office doesn't always cut it either. These days, I look more like Randy from A Christmas Story than I do a teacher.

On several occasions, the school has lost power. Its happened on at least five or six separate days. And I'm guessing it happens on a semi-regular basis....or at least often enough for them to have a metal bell hanging from a tree. Before the end and beginning of each class the gate guard walks to the bell and hits it with a mini sledge hammer to remind us to switch periods. On these days I've realized how precious the little heat we have in our office really is. So this is what it must feel like to work outside.